Zambia
Zambia
Zambia, a country home to a shy population of 2.2 milllion, the people here are quiet and reserved, unsure whether to wave at the truck passing by or not. Our time here again short, our visits to Lusaka the countries capital pleasant compared to Zimbabwe’s Harare. Lusaka has kind gentle souls who welcomed us with peace, buying bananas on the street from locals making their days and mine. Our campsite is a farming site, so we were briefed on wildlife encounters and were let free to frolick in the pool with the other intrepid bus who have come from Nairobi and who are making their way down to cape town, the opposite trip to my own. They spoke highly of the next few days for us, cautiously listening as they recapped their incredible encounters in South Luangwa National Park, where we would find ourselves the following night. We warned them about the 10 hour drive to come! Our drive to south luangwa wasn’t much less than that, after breakfast with the neighbourhood zebras and giraffes…. Literally we had another long drive day reading, writing and reflecting, I’ve enjoyed the quiet moments on board to compliment the chaos when we hop off each day.
Our campsite in South Luangwa, Crocodile lodge homed a 20m pool, so I wasted no time In putting my goggles on and having a swim, although it didn’t last long with the murky water proving hazardous in hitting walls and other people! I’ve missed swimming though, the runs I’ve been able to go on when safe (not very often) don’t compare to the feeling of being free in the water, especially for my joints, todays swim enjoyable but no where near long enough.
After a long day we went to sleep, briefed on what to do if we needed to answer the call of nature during the night, I again made sure I didn’t have an ounce of liquid in my bladder to ensure I wouldn’t need to go…. I would not be getting chased by a hippo or lion tonight! Surviving the night, it was the heat that kept us awake, our first very humid very hot evening, compared to the usual reprieve we’ve got after sun down. I laid sweating naked on my mattress until it kind of cooled down at 1am, the canvas tent not helpful in 40+ temperatures and 90% humidity.
Our 5am alarm made it seem I hadn’t slept a wink but the game drive this morning jolting my awake with excitement. The first game drive for many of our new friends, I had my fingers crossed we would be as lucky as we had been, and as as prior groups said they were, but it wasn’t to be. After stopping for elephants, giraffes, hippos and zebras, as well as mongoose and an array of birdlife we were disappointed to head back to camp without seeing the lion cubs or any other cat in the park, of which we know there are lots around. We would be re-joining the 4x4’s this evening for another 4 hours in the park so. Our hopes were high we would get a chance later on.
A day by the pool FaceTiming home and doing life admin (trying to move you and your things 3000km’s away is hard without wifi and a laptop!!) was welcomed before we jumped back in the 4wd vehicles ready for our first evening game drive. Still with no luck spotting a cat we parked up for an epic sunset spot in the park, if this was all we got out of this evening I was happy, the colours of the sun going over the African bushland incredible. For our new friends, they were happy we had ticked buffalo off the big 5 list, now with 2 to go for them, lions and leopard, and just the leopards for Lauren and I. The slow drive back through the park was somber, I closed my eyes and practiced some gratitude. Whilst it’s important to acknowledge disappointment it was important I put the day into perspective. When else am I able to jump in a 4x4 and drive through a national park in Zambia looking for lion cubs and leopards, more importantly who else gets to say that’s how they casually spent their Tuesday evening. The fact we saw elephants, giraffe, hippo, buffalo, antelope, crocodile, mongoose and the most beautiful birds is incredible in itself, and I felt almost disappointed that we have become so accustomed to seeing these animals in the wild we don’t appreciate them anymore. I know I’ll be back in Perth in 5 weeks to the day and will be missing the opportunity for experiences like this, so I changed my tune and began reflecting on how lucky I have been and manifesting that will continue into future game drives.
Not a minute later and only 10 minutes from the park entrance, a leopard. The excitement filled the truck fast, cameras out (no flash) faster than you could’ve said leopard, the figure crossing the road I could hardly even make out. The spotlight the guides use when it’s dark out illuminated the leopard like she was the star of a broadway show, the surrounding bushland, pitch black. She casually crossed the road in a timely fashion before both her demeanour and speed swiftly changed. She was on a mission, and despite our bright lights and engine roars she was going to kill, or try too. I couldn’t quite believe my eyes, and if seeing her wasn’t enough we watched her stalk a herd of antelope before pouncing out of our light and into the darkness. The sounds of a loud shriek of what was now dinner and the rest of the group fleeing into the bushland filled darkness of the night, along with many wows and omg’s, we got incredibly lucky seeing a leopard hunt and I think it’s safe to say there’s power in positivity.
Not 100% sure if she caught her kill or just injured it, the success rate of a leopards hunting is low, and considering we didn’t see her finishing off the meal out in the openness made it seem as though she may have been unsuccessful, but nonetheless, what an incredible thing to witness.
Now on an absolute high, positive vibes from everyone in the truck we were more than happy to head home, although our eyes were now wide and keen to see more. And more we did. Hippos out of the water, many with injuries of fellow hippos marked along their sides, and two beautiful hyenas scavenging. We were elated and the delicious meal waiting for us back at camp, traditional Kenyan chapati and lentil curry topped off the incredible night.
We would leave Zambia the next day heading into Malawi for a change of scenery and people, but Zambia was perfect, officially ticking off my African Big 5 of Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, Buffalo and Lion. Yet Zambia was also where I reflected on that list and realised this trip hasn’t and isn’t just about ticking animals and countries of of lists. It’s about the journeys, experiences, cultures and people you meet along the way that are truely memorable, and ticking countries off of lists isn’t commendable unless the memories you make in those places are important to you and who you are, Zambia definitely was.