Three Weeks Around Iceland’s Ring Road in a Campervan: A Journey Into Fire, Ice, and Midnight Sun
Iceland is a place that feels like it’s been dreamt up by the universe during a particularly inspired creative burst—volcanoes smoking, glaciers gleaming, waterfalls crashing like symphonies, and endless roads that invite you to slow down and get lost. And the best way to explore this raw, wild island? By campervan, with a map, and all the time in the world.
I spent three weeks circumnavigating the famous Ring Road (Route 1), living out of a van that became my tiny, rolling home. The rhythm was simple: wake early, chase light, park somewhere wild, sleep under the midnight sun or the faint shimmer of northern lights, then repeat.
Here’s what I learned along the way—from campsites and sights to the hard truth about costs and timing.
Why a campervan? Because freedom is everything.
Iceland is expensive—there’s no way around it. Food, gas, and accommodation quickly add up, so the campervan was my best budget friend. It was both my transport and my lodging, meaning I could stop wherever the road tempted me, cook my own meals, and avoid hotel prices that would make your jaw drop.
I rented a campervan through companies like Happy Campers and Kuku Campers (expect to pay around $120–$180 USD per day in peak season), which came fully equipped with a small stove, a fridge, and basic kitchenware. The van wasn’t luxury—it was snug, cozy, and perfectly suited for the adventure.
When to go? Early mornings are gold.
Iceland’s seasons make a huge difference. I went in early summer, which meant 24-hour daylight (the midnight sun) and mild-ish weather. But that also meant crowds.
The secret: wake early. Starting your day at dawn means you can see major sights almost alone, avoid tour buses, and capture that soft, magical morning light that photographers dream of.
Campsites: Where to park your home on wheels
Iceland’s campsites are plentiful, clean, and well-managed—though in peak season, booking ahead is wise.
Some favorites:
Þingvellir National Park Campsite: A great starting point near the Golden Circle. Quiet, surrounded by history, and walking distance to stunning cliffs.
Skógar Campsite: Near the famous Skógafoss waterfall. It’s basic but puts you right at the doorstep of one of Iceland’s most iconic cascades.
Vík Campsite: A small, friendly spot near Reynisfjara black sand beach. Perfect for beach walks and puffin spotting.
Skaftafell Campsite: Inside Vatnajökull National Park, surrounded by glaciers and hiking trails.
Akureyri Campsite: In the “Capital of the North,” a great spot to stock up and explore northern Iceland.
Egilsstaðir Campsite: For eastern fjord adventures, with lovely lakeside views.
Most campsites cost between $15 and $30 USD per night per person, sometimes more if you want electricity or facilities. But the trade-off is warmth, showers, toilets, and a safe place to park.
The best things to see—and when
The Ring Road covers roughly 1,332 km (828 miles), so pacing yourself is key. Here are some highlights that took my breath away:
Golden Circle (Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss): Start here, early in the morning before the crowds swarm the geysers. Þingvellir’s tectonic rift valleys and historic significance set the tone.
South Coast waterfalls (Seljalandsfoss & Skógafoss): Arrive early or late to catch these in golden light. Bonus: you can walk behind Seljalandsfoss.
Reynisfjara black sand beach: Be cautious of sneaker waves but soak up the surreal basalt columns and roaring sea.
Vatnajökull National Park and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon: The icebergs floating in the lagoon are otherworldly. Don’t miss a boat tour if your budget allows.
East Fjords: Less touristy, more peaceful. Small fishing villages, winding fjords, and reindeer sightings.
Mývatn Region: Volcanic landscapes, mud pools, and the soothing Mývatn Nature Baths (a quieter alternative to the Blue Lagoon).
Akureyri: The second-largest city, charming and colorful, a great pitstop for supplies.
Westfjords (if you have time): Remote, rugged, and breathtaking—but the roads can be rough and slower.
The little things that made it special
Cooking your own meals: Grocery stores like Bonus and Kronan are your friends. Stock up on basics and try to make meals in the van to save money and soak up the cozy vibe.
Wild camping? It’s technically illegal in most places unless you have permission, so stick to campsites. But Iceland’s campsites are so good it doesn’t feel like a compromise.
Fuel costs: Gas is pricey—expect around $2 USD per liter. Plan your drives carefully.
Weather: It changes fast. One morning I woke up to sunshine and by noon, the sky was dark with snow. Layer up and always be prepared.
Connectivity: Wi-Fi is good in campsites and towns, but get an Icelandic SIM card for remote areas.
Costs: Prepare to feel your wallet cringe (but it’s worth it)
Iceland isn’t cheap, and that’s part of its rugged charm. Here’s a rough breakdown:
Campervan rental: $120–$180 USD per day (including basic insurance)
Campsites: $15–$30 USD per person per night
Fuel: Around $2 USD per liter; expect $300–$500 USD total for the trip depending on distance
Food: Groceries $50–$70 per week if cooking; eating out costs $20–$40 per meal minimum
Attractions: Most natural wonders are free; some tours (glacier hikes, boat rides) cost $70–$150 USD
Final thoughts: Why Iceland on the road?
Three weeks driving Iceland’s Ring Road is more than a trip—it’s a slow dance with nature’s extremes. It’s waking before dawn to watch waterfalls shimmer in dawn light, falling asleep to the whisper of the wind against your campervan, and finding quiet moments between the storms.
If you want a journey that tests your patience, rewards your curiosity, and leaves your camera full of impossible shots—take the road. Take the campervan. And let Iceland’s fire and ice write their story on you.